The Drifter's Den

THE SUMILON SENSATION

DAY 1

It was a muscle twitch on my leg that awakened me. I had been sulking inside a moving van for almost two hours together with other colleagues from the media, heading towards the southern part of the province. It was a smooth and comfortable ride, though. As I burped out the gaseous residues of that Chicken Joy meal we had for lunch on the road, I had my head against the glass window. I wanted to breathe in the fresh air rather than what the van’s air conditioner had to offer. Instead I was given a grand vista of a distant small island just as we reached this winding coastal road in the town of Oslob. I knew then that we have almost reached our destination - the famous little island known as Sumilon.




On that day, we were a group of three media outlets, lucky enough to earn the privilege of experiencing firsthand the said beauty and blissful bounties of the island. At around eleven in the morning, we departed from the main highway and entered a metal gate that led us to this nerve-wracking steep slope of a concrete driveway which had everyone bracing for their dear lives. I guess the management just wanted us to get an early preview of what to expect in the island and maybe just to heighten our sense of adventure. But it was particularly safe and as soon as we reached the flat grounds we can’t thank our good driver enough.

We were now at this sort of reception area wherein all guests bound for the island were to stay while waiting for the designated motorized boats to whisk them to the island. The area was a beauty in itself with its pebbled beach, landscaped gardens and a cozy and fully furnished large “hut” that served as the waiting lounge. While waiting for our boat ride, we were each given cold face towels to freshen up. It was one of the most revitalizing experiences I had, ever.

In no time we found ourselves walking on the wooden planks of a long, elevated boardwalk leading to the already stationed wooden boat. With the sound of the waves crashing down below our feet and the cool ocean breeze against our faces, we were assured that we were about to have a great day ahead of us. In minutes, the sound of the motor running, the laughter, the voices of excitement and the cold wind was like music to my ears as we began to sail across.




From afar the island wasn’t much but a small speck of green in the horizon. But as we inched our way closer and closer, it began to unravel itself before us. Before we reached the docking bay, our guides decided to take us on a 360 degree cruise around the island. It was then that we realized that the greens we saw were the tips of different kinds of trees that grew on the rocky island.



A very noticeable white spot on the island, when viewed up close, was in fact a beautiful sand bar. The water beneath us turned bright and pristine in a blue green shade, so clear that we could already see the beautiful coral formations below.









An imminent structure – an old lighthouse – stood on the other side of the island, behind the thick foliage. Gazing at it for minutes, I felt its loneliness which made me decide that I must give it a closer visit before we leave the island. There was also a long stretch of white sand where nipa sheds were aligned intricately alongside tropical plants. Even if we hadn’t set foot on the island yet, its splendor was enough to captivate anyone passing by.







Once our feet touched solid ground, we were greeted with warm smiles and shell necklaces by the resort’s staff. By groups, we were brought to our respective rest houses where we could freshen up before we jump in to the scheduled itinerary for the day. Our rooms were very comfortable that nobody wanted to go out just yet.







But everyone knew time was essential during this short vacation, and we shouldn’t be wasting it idly in bed. After everybody got the necessary rest, we began by touring the different guest houses, all lined facing the sea. The rooms had a combination of Asian and semi-modern architecture with its wooden banisters and huge sliding panel doors. Walls were concrete though and the roofs were covered with cogon grass. The interior was really spacious that one could play a game of patintero inside. The beds were just as comfortable as the huge rest room that’s even bigger than my own room back home.




After a few more strolls within the vicinity, we were summoned towards the pavilion for lunch. Everyone was smiling now. How could one afford not to, when you’re standing in front of a long table filled with sumptuous and mouth watering array of Filipino dishes, complete from soup to dessert. It was a feast for hungry seafood lovers, vigorous flesh-eaters or the plain health conscious omnivores that I couldn’t help but dig in with my bare hands.

Afternoon came and I decided to take a hike and look for that sandbar. Our itinerary said that there was going to be a mock wedding there for us to see. Well, to be honest, it’s just a lame excuse for me to skip the anticipated Holy Mass being celebrated by the resort staffs and several guests. It’s not that I didn’t want to hear Mass; I just wanted to see the sunset so bad and I know I’d surely miss it if I stay long for the Mass. I was a bit guilty, but in just minutes, all remorse was erased when I saw everyone followed me to the sandbar. Ha! The agnostic armada arrives.



The staff had set up a sort of beach wedding ceremony complete with floor tables and woven mats with cushion pillows to sit on. It was all accented by a bamboo pole covered with flowers, the makeshift altar for the foreign couple serving as models for the day to ‘play’ with. If the whole set up was for real, surely it would be far more than what the definition of the word romantic could explain. As the sun slowly surrendered itself behind the distant mainland mountain and the sky transformed itself to a palette of crimson and velvet blanket, the flicker and the glow of the candle lights in every table cast a magical spell to the place. The spirit of the fellowship was very much felt in the warmness that embraced everyone brought about by the large bonfire.



After that romantic runabout, the resort’s service carts brought us back to the pavilion for dinner. Once again all stomachs were satisfactory filled. And the night did not end there just yet. We were surprised by some of the resort’s staff and crew who performed different Filipino folk dances complete with costumes. It was indeed a fiesta as what they had promised us.





The night was still very young after the fiesta dinner, that some decided to try the booze that the island paradise can offer. Just outside the pavilion is the beautifully lighted pool, so inviting that I didn’t notice that everybody has already jumped in. I wasn’t gonna let them have all the fun so I dived in as well. Night swimming in that pool is really rejuvenating. I can never forget the moment I swam towards the ledge clanged my arm and stared at the heavens.


The whole night sky is painted with clear and luminous stars. Something I hadn’t seen in ages by living in the city. The island is really ideal for anybody who wants a relaxing getaway but if you’re really a person who can’t free yourself from certain responsibilities, do not fret, for the island is has free wi-fi for guests and cellphone signals are fairly high so there’s no reason at all for you not to connect with the world of Facebook or simply savor a memorable phone conversation. It was indeed a very good first day in the island. We slept with a definite smile on our faces. I just wish my roommate had his earplugs on that night, if not, I knew for sure he was absolutely pestered by my snoring all night long.



Day 2

Everytime I travel, I always make it a point to wake up early in the morning. I guess my body clock would just reset itself and reboot my system to default the moment I’m in an unfamiliar bed. So I got up early leaving my roommate in slumberworld, glad that my snoring didn’t bother him that much or maybe he had dozed off just recently.







While everyone was still sleeping, I went out. It was still a bit misty outside. From a far I could see birds walking, gliding, and hopping from point to point on a water-receded part of the beach. It was low tide. In a not so distant part of the sea I saw sparks on the water. And I knew what that meant. Sunrise.



I ran all the way back to the room and grabbed my cameras and looked for the spot where I could see the sun, and I wasn’t dismayed at all. On the edge of a rocky cliff I witnessed a perfect sunrise with all the glory of seeing the whole reddish circular spectacle slowly creeping up from the horizon.







After the moments of marvel my thoughts began to shift towards the pathway and saw several walking sticks stationed on the sides. I then remembered the lonely lighthouse I saw the other day. I felt it’s the right time to visit it, so with the push of instinct I grabbed one walking stick and head out for a lone walk along the trail of trees. Given poor navigational skills I simply relied on my guts as compass to lead me towards that sought lighthouse. I was walking under several trees. Sunbeams seep through small openings from the foliage of tree leaves overhead. My feet were in constant battle with some loose and pointy rocks covering the path. I was walking for almost half an hour already and still there was no lighthouse in sight. I began to question myself whether I had taken the right trail, or worse, I’m just lost. My grip on my walking grew firmer with thoughts of wild animals emerging suddenly. But my feet just won’t stop trudging as if it has a mind of its own. As I keep on moving I eventually reached a clear part of the forest.



And there in front of me stood the towering concrete lighthouse. I suppose it was more than a hundred feet high. There was a circular platform nestled on top of it that served as a viewing deck. I wanted to climb but seeing that there were no spiral staircases to lead me up, I got discouraged especially when I saw that the only option to reach the top is to climb by holding on to iron bars embedded vertically along the whole height of the tower’s wall. In short I chickened out. When I turned away from the tower I was even more surprised.



Just adjacent to the lighthouse a century old limestone watchtower is seemingly hiding itself among the thin trees surrounding it. It was still not that bright that time and the fact that I was alone, the sight of that unexpected baluarte somehow gave me some chills. So I hurriedly left the area and headed back towards the trail. Knowing that the island was circular I knew that by just following the trail it would lead me back to where I started.




Along the pathway I started reading signs of caves. I remembered from the map I saw the other night that there were several caves in the island, and they called them the Yamashita caves, after that famous legendary Japanese general who many believed hid several treasures in Cebu. I did found the caves but there weren’t no treasures, golden buddhas and precious gems to be found. What I discovered were a series of small caves scattered in a specific area. Too small that it’s quite impossible for a person to get inside. Nonetheless it was still a great experience to be up close with this small natural wonders of nature.

















I looked at my watch and realized that it’s time for me to go back to the rest of the group, I’ve already consumed a lot of time not to mention energy. And to think that there’s still a whole day of activities in store for us.

Breakfast call came about just as the time I arrived back at the room. I joined everyone else as we headed back to the other side of the island just below the pavilion. There was a rocky stairs leading all the way towards the islands longest shoreline. And from the stairs you can view that just behind the beach is a dark, murky and mysterious looking lagoon.






And while where having our heavy breakfast I can help but stare at the still and placid waters. And when I saw two kayaks lying under a tree I hurriedly finished my meal put my cameras in my drybag and went off. I chose a better looking kayak to raise the level of survival for this instant venture to the unknown.



I slowly paddled through, gradually feeling the oar and the water. When my rhythm was attuned I waded on much further. In the distant I can see that the lagoon was surrounded by mangrove trees. I began inching my way closer to the sides. In one moment I happened to had spotted a heron resting on one of the branches, I tried to get closer, looked down on the paddle for a second and when I glanced back up the bird was gone. And I saw then behind the mangroves rose a rocky cliff surrounded with small intertwined trees and other plants. The view from the lagoon is really quite exhilarating; I just couldn’t dare to look much at the dark water who knows what strange creatures lurk underneath it.




After the rest had their share of paddling exercise. We we’re now about to start the next activity-nature trekking. What a bummer, I just had the longest walk of my life that early morning and now I have to do it all over again.



Anyways to fight the agony I just keep on reminding myself that there’s a reward at the end of the walk. At breakfast we were promised a chance to go scuba diving if we go on with the trek. So the heck with tiredness, give me a million kilometers of walking trail as long as the chance to get to go scuba diving for real is there at the end. A chance of a lifetime experience will never come back to you that easily. So off we go with the trek. Again we march and march along the narrow trail like little ants in search for food. Everyone was obviously at war with their own body as everyone was literally bathing with their own sweats.













A moment’s rest came about when we reached a certain open part of the cliff where a grand overlooking view of the lagoon and the beach could be enjoyed. We continued down the trail till we finally reached the lighthouse and the spooky baluarte. The sun was up high now and the old baluarte seems to be a little less intimidating. But it was the lighthouse that kept bugging me. I again looked up and stared at the iron bar ladder. I thought I will never leave the island without taking a picture from up above. Without knowing it I was already climbing the tower, one bar at a time. Halfway at the tower cool breeze began to blow in, my hands and legs began to tremble. I could feel the weight of my two cameras tucked behind me growing heavier and heavier in each reach and step upwards. I caught a glimpse below and saw how tiny everyone was. I was already so high yet I was still halfway. So I just focused right away at the bar that I’m holding and mustered all the strength left in me and continued to climb. I don’t want to look upwards to know how far I am yet to reach safety or look down below on how high would be my fall. I was so relieved when my hands touched the base of the platform.






The view on top is very much rewarding. One could enjoy a magnificent 360 degree view of the whole island. Some of the brave-souled companions joined me on top and together we were like kings and queens on top of our castle tower overlooking our kingdom. But then we knew we still have a big problem ahead. Going back down is another story.










I left the lighthouse really fulfilled. Having to conquer a different kind of fear is indeed satisfying. We went straight to the sandbar area of the island where we are about to reap our rewards from that grueling but fun walk with nature. Upon reaching the sandbar a glass-bottom boat awaits everyone. Without wasting time we jumped in the boat by batches and were taken away towards the marine sanctuary. Below the boat, as it was named, the glass-bottom provided everyone a window to the underwater life. There everyone was awed to see magnificent coral formations and multi-colored fishes.



When the boat ride was over everyone were given snorkeling gears for a much more intimate encounter of the sea and the life below. Even some of our hopeless-swimmers with their tightly tucked life vests, were having such a wonderful time wading to and fro the crystal clear waters. The excitement hasn’t really kicked in on me until the very moment I saw the boat carrying the scuba diving equipments heading towards the shoreline. I was already raising my hand up high even before the dive masters were able to ask everyone who would want to try. I just don’t know what I was feeling back then a sudden burst of different emotions overwhelmed me the moment each and single equipment and apparatus was attached to my body. I was feeling the wet suit engulfing me like a symbiotic organism forming a second layer of skin. The tank was heavy in my back but the moment we were in water it felt nothing like thin air. Initially there were four of us who listened intently to the dive master’s orientation and instructions. But in between the dry runs, er should I say wet runs, one of our companions backed out for some personal reasons. I know by that moment he’ll be missing half of his life for passing the chance of a lifetime. After we finished all the necessary exercises our dive master had his thumb pointing down signaling everyone to submerge and start diving.



At these moments my heart was pounding so fast and beating like drums. I clenched my teeth on to my mouthpiece so hard just to have a continuous rhythm of air intake for my lungs to recognize. Gradually I learned to relax. The moment I completely calmed down was the time a whole new world revealed itself before my very eyes. Down below one doesn’t need to have a twenty-twenty grade of vision to take pleasure and savor the inexplicable beauty of the underwater realms.



For real, my nearsightedness never became a problem as I viewed so vividly this alien landscape through my mask. If I am to describe by words I guess every positive adjective in the dictionary would fit towards the describing of this underworld. Well, um, maybe except for the word “breathtaking.”

There was complete silence down below except for the taste of oxygen and the noise emanating from the breathing apparatus. As I turned back I saw the rest hovering behind me. We were like spacemen floating on a planet with less gravity. A tap from above made me look up, the assistant dive master just signaled for us to move on. Thus we did, passing through several odd looking coral and rock formations. Fishes of different types, hues and sizes just buzz about from every direction. Then we reached this point that really gave me goose bumps even underwater. We were all now at the edge of a drop off. When those beautiful array of corals suddenly was cut off to give in for a very massive gap of the whole ocean. We were all staring at the abyss for some time. But then we have to tuck in our fears to be able to move on. Now we’re just traversing the edge of the underwater cliff, the fear just slowly disappeared as our eyes were fixed to the abundant life activities by the edge. It was truly a heavenly experience.



It was really hard to swallow that I had learned to dive that day. Though I wasn’t really that good in maneuvering myself down below, still, I was glad. I didn’t even mind the gashes and cuts I earned from being too close to the rocks. It was really an unforgettable experience.



After all the mind-blowing activities a heartful lunch was already waiting for us back at the lagoon area. We literally devoured everything on sight down to the very bones and to the last scoop of desert being served. As I was chewing and savoring every taste in my mouth I can’t help but recall the things that we did on the island. Though all were pretty much banged up and weary, but I could just see in everyone’s eyes that they were greatly satisfied. We are now about to leave the island but surely, the moments, the sensation will forever be etched in each of our memories.



I’ve never felt royalty as much as those two days well spent on that “adventure island”. And as we watched the waving staffs at the edge of the cliff I was really moved. All my life I had never been truly pampered the way island and its people did. And for that I will always be grateful for everything.